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Custom Hat Making Process

Of course we're not going to divulge all of our "secrets". However, the following will give you a better appreciation of the craftsmanship and pride that is entailed in each and every custom western hat that goes out of Shorty's Caboy Hattery's doors.

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Pictured above is a completely open "blank".

A wooden block is placed inside the blank's crown and it is put into an antique machine called a "blocker" that "presses" the crown to reinforce the sturdiness of the hat (above).

The crown is then monitored as it is ironed by a machine that only the most accomplished custom hatter's own (above left). Ironing the crown sets the stiffness into the beaver fur. The hat "remembers" this stiffness when it is later hand-shaped and the steam is allowed to dry completely.

Crown ironing is automated at companies that mass produce their "custom" hats.

Next the brim is hand-ironed to "set" its stiffness, which like the crown, it "remembers" when steamed and shaped in a later process. A hat flange is placed on the brim overnight (above right) before the next step can begin.

The next day, the block is removed from the crown and the hat band is stamped (ex:80X, your name, etc.) and then sewn into the hat (above left is the stamping "machine" and a hat band is being sewn into the hat in the photo, above right).

Extreme caution must be used in this step. If the "foot" on the sewing machine isn't adjusted perfectly, it can cut the entire brim off the hat. This rarely happens at Shorty's Caboy Hattery, due to the years of craftsmanship in Shorty's staff. When it does, however, the whole process begins again with a new "blank" and the destroyed hat is discarded. The next step is to sew the lining inside the hat. Once the lining is in, it is time to start the shaping process.

Great care is taken to apply the perfect amount of steam to allow the beaver fur to become flexible enough to first shape the crown. This process is done completely by hand at Shorty's Caboy Hattery.

Even the highest quality "custom" hats from the major manufacturers shape their hats using steam machines and "molds" to set the crown and brim's crease.

A person looking for a "name brand" 100X hat, shaped by machine, can expect to pay the same amount of money as they would pay for a custom cowboy hat from Shorty's Caboy Hattery which is shaped, 100% by hand. The finishing touches are put on the crown (above left). Next, the brim is hand shaped (above right).

Attention to every detail is paid (above left) as the finishing touches are placed on the brim. When the person shaping the hat by hand believes it is perfect (above right), it is examined to make sure that the crown and brim are both shaped evenly all the way around.

The final "step" in this painstaking process, is to place each completed hat in front of a fan (above) to expedite the "re-stiffening" process that was set into the hat in the ironing step. Each hat will stay in front of a fan until it is completely dried and "set".

Because Shorty's Caboy Hattery uses only the very best 100% beaver fur (in the 100X custom hat) and beaver fur blends (in the 20X and 80X hats), there is never a need to put a "rain hat" on a custom western hat from Shorty's Caboy Hattery. If placed in a well-ventilated place to dry, the hat will retain its original shape and "stiffness". Shorty's Caboy Hattery also guarantees all of their hats, including black, to be completely color-fast. The dyes in many of the major manufacturer's hats, especially their black hats, will run if they get wet.

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